Illustrated Tour of the Installation Process

Steps to upgrade the Color Classic Resolution from 512x384 to 640x480

Tools You Need:

Philips screw driver


Tool to open the Color Classic. It is a Torx-15, however you also can use an hex-tool #

sharp knife

used to cut the copper plane around "pin 8" (step 12, 14)

a 1" solid wire (gauge 18)

this piece is used to short out pins 8 and 10 (step 12)

4.7 K resistor*

only used for rev. "D" analog boards

insulation tubing*

only used for rev. "D" analog boards

hex-tool #

for the final adjustments to the screen


solder iron

Ohmmeter (any multi meter)

optional to verify the connectivity


used as adhesive


Step 1:

Verify the proper operation of your Color Classic

verify the current resolution in the "Monitor" Control Panel by clicking into the "option.." button

Step 2:

Prepare your computer

Shut down your Mac properly.
Unplug the power cord and remove all cables from the back ports.

Step 3:

Open your Mac

Remove the two screws on each side of the back panel.
There are 2 tabs on the back panel.
Push these tabs down while pulling.
Now the logic board is exposed.

Step 4:

Remove the logic board

Pull the logic board out of the chassis.

Step 5:

Remove screws from back side

Position the Color Classic with its screen down.
Use the MacOpener™ to remove two screws on the bottom and two screws on the top side.

Step 6:

Remove the back chassis

Lift and remove the back side of the chassis

Step 7:

Remove video board

Locate the silicon which holds the video "box" on the tube and along the metal edge with a sharp razor blade.
Lift this "box" while rocking it slightly until it is disconnected from the tube.

Step 8:

Disconnect cables

Step 8a:

Push on the tap to unlock while pulling on the first cable, located just beneath the power connector.

Step 8:

Disconnect cables

Step 8b:

Pull on the X-Y-control cable, located on the left side.

Step 8:

Disconnect cables

Step 8c:

Pull on both ends of the microphone cable

Step 8:

Disconnect cables

Step 8d:

Make sure at lease 10 minutes have passed since power off!!!!
The flyback has a discharge resistor which discharges the high voltage fairly quickly. If you are still not sure, wait another 15 min.

Lift the rubber so you can see the orientation of the hooks. Push towards one hock until the other one has cleared the hole. Then clear the first hook.

Step 8:

Disconnect cables

Step 8e:

Disconnect the grounding cable, beware it has two hooks (arrows) over which the grounding line has to be moved.


Step 9:

Remove analog board

Now pull the analog board upward until it clears the tabs, then remove it from the frame.

Step 10:

Remove metal shielding

Squeeze the analog board and the metal shield so the tabs are cleared (red circle) and slide the metal shield towards the front. Watch for the one metal tap (arrow) it mostly get caught in a hole preventing the slide.
Remove the metal shield and put it aside.


Step 11:

Identify the revision and the location for the modification

Identify the different revision of the analog boards by there numbers. The board number is located on the top left corner (arrow).
There are 2 major revisions. Rev. "B" and "C" are having jumpers and Rev. "D" has no jumpers.
There are two areas for the modification.
The red cycle in the center is referred as "ZP1" and the cycle on the edge connector is referred to as "ID-select" area.
The modification of the "ID-select" area differs between the two revisions.

Step 12:

Modification on the "ZP1" area

This change applies for both revisions of the analog board.
Identify pin 8 of the transformer and use a very sharp knife to cut the copper around this pin.
Use the multi meter to verify that there is no connectivity between pin 8 and 9 any more. Now solder the one end of the wire on pin 8 and the other end on pin 10. (However there is connectivity between pins 9 and 10 and therefore there is yet again connectivity between pins 8 and 9 after you soldered the wire on pins 8 and 10)


Step 13:

Modification on the "ID-select" area Rev "B" and "C"

locate the location "J78" and "J79".
Use the solder iron to remove the 0 resistor on location "J78" and solder it onto location "J79".
Skip the next step.


Step 14:

Modification on the "ID-select" area Rev "D"

Identify pin 20 on the edge connector.
Cut the trace using the sharp knife and verify with the multi meter that there is no connectivity between pins 20 and 18.
Use the insulation tubing to insulate the resistor to prevent unnecessary shorts.
Solder the resistor on pin 20 and on pin 3.
Tip to count: start on the right side with pin one (the right most pin on the bottom row), pin 2 is the right most pin on the top row. Pin 3 is to the left of pin 1, and so on.


Step 15:

Install the analog board back into the chassis

Mount the metal shielding onto the analog board, install it into the chassis and connect the cables doing it in the reversed sequence as in steps: 10, 9 and 8.

Step 16:

Install the video board

apply some silicon onto the original silicon before installing the video board back onto the tube.
Mace sure the video board sits firmly.

Step 17:

Install the logic board

install the logic board without closing the chassis.
Put the Color Classic onto its feed and connect the power cord as well as the keyboard.

Step 18:

Adjust the picture shape

Step 18a:

Using the Hex-tool, adjust the picture on the back side as follows.
Recommended width is 6.7" and height is 4.9". Individual results may vary.

Adjustment table


for color adjustment, don't use


for color adjustment, don't use


for color adjustment, don't use


for color adjustment, don't use


for color adjustment, don't use


for color adjustment, don't use


(vertical height)


(horizontal width)




(horizontal shift)


(vertical shift)


Step 18:

Adjust the picture focus & brightness

Step 18b:

On the left side of the analog board there are two potentiometers, the one toward the front is labeled "FOCUS", the other one is for the brightness.
Using the Hex-tool, adjust the picture's focus and brightness on this two potentiometers.

Step 19:

Close the chassis

There is no need to remove the logic board in order to close the back of the chassis.
Do it in the reverse order as in steps 5 and 3.

Step 20:

Enjoy your increased resolution

verify the new resolution in the "Monitor" Control Panel by clicking into the "option.." button



Individual results may vary.
MicroMac does not take any responsibility in any form if you choose to perform this steps on your own. We recommend having this upgrade performed by a service place.
Please see our legal notice for more information.

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This page was last modified on July 10, 1998.